Euros will work for you though.

1. Less active in cool temps.
2. Food breaksdown slowly in cool temps (Think fridge).

2. Rabbit manure does not need to be composted, but you want to have a way of
separating the high salt urine from the feces. Salt is a game changer.

3. See #2

4. Under appx 70 degrees or so, cocoon production drops off.

Raising worms is as much art as it is science. Weather conditions, bedding conditions, feed conditions, all impact worm production.

”Homogeneous” castings are created by time. The more time the worms have to work on the castings, the more pure the castings become. There is no such thing as 100% pure castings, nor does their need to be.

You can raise Reds with Euros just fine. One of the advantages is you’ve always got fishing worms.

Worms feed wherever the food supply is.

You can purchase a harvester with a fine screen to separate cocoons, but you will never get them all.

1. Bedrun means you are buying a pound of worms. Whatever the pitchfork brings up on the harvest. Usually a good mix of large and small worms.

2. 50%/50% We pull worms from the red wiggler beds and the euro beds to ”Create” the mix.

3. As long as the order does not take the box up to the next largest size (Or a second box), I can reduce the shipping on the order. Contact me directly before ordering at TheWormDude@Comcast.net

4. Not sure of your question here. If you are asking about Red Wigglers, ours run anywhere from 800-1200 per pound. The other worms are not shipped bedrun so your question would not apply.

I just harvested mine and had very little unprocessed paper.

No reason to be concerned either way. Newspaper is just organic material, and
if you end up putting it around your plants, it will not harm anything. Additionally, you could always pull out the paper scraps and just add back on top when you refill your Inn.

The only adjustment I make close to harvest time is letting the whole thing get dryer than normal. That way, more worms are in the ”Sweet Spot”, where the food scraps are releasing moisture.

Get a plastic cup, fill with apple cider vinegar, and a couple drops of dish detergent (Makes it hard for the bugs to get out). Soon you will have hundreds of dead fruit flies in the cup.

Easy.

If this is going to be a short term educational project, yes, a plastic bin will work. If you want to teach your kids about how much waste you keep out of the landfill because of the worms, you’ll want something better than plastic.

I’d suggest building a wooden box. No need for it to be fancy…you could even use slats of scrap wood. A wooden box filled with lots of damp, fluffed bedding will work much better than any plastic bin as you have less worry about the food scraps ”Turning nasty”.

The ideal food for making worms fat is top feeding them with grain. But, although you may make them fat, you’re not going to be recycling your scraps (Should not do both).

I would stick with newspaper and/or cardboard for bedding. You can even use toilet paper tubes and paper towel tubes.

You are correct though…you did leave out some important info.

My first recommendation is to fill your Inn COMPLETELY with damp, fluffed paper. I know that when I fill mine to the point of struggling to zip it closed on Sunday, by the next weekend the level is at the bottom of the black material (Black fabric around the perimeter of the Inn). Even though it is stuffed with paper, You can easily add lots of food as the paper has air gaps all over.

Yes, your worms will eventually get to the Moldy material.

No real secret to this. I don’t even look at mine except when I need to add food. I just move some bedding, and drop in the food, and zip the bag back up. When I water, I just bring in the hose and mist right through the mesh. I don’t even unzip it.

For most people, one worm Inn will suffice. I fill mine with probably about 10 pounds or more of produce scraps every week. That’s a lot, as we eat lots of produce. Your situation sounds a little different. You stockpiled a bunch of scraps, and now are anxious to unload them. You’re going to need to unload your scraps over time (Could be weeks depending on how many scraps you’ve saved up). The good thing is, you’re going to be able to process probably 5-10x more scraps than a rubbermaid bin, or even a plastic stackable system. If you are intent on processing all the waste you’ve saved, I would just get another Inn and have at it.

Regarding the frozen scraps. Actually, freezing them is a really good practice. When they defrost, the cell walls break down and the worms can eat the material quickly. Probably best to let the scraps defrost before putting them in. Not sure if you realize this, but you don’t need to freeze them longer than overnight to get the benefits of the freeze/thaw breakdown.

If you have more questions, fire away.