Take a look at this video.   Bentley from WWW.RedwormComposting.Com has continued his quest to max out The Worm Inn, and no matter how much food he puts in,  The Worm Inn  continues to outperform at a level never seen before in ANYcommercial home composting system.

In the past month, 44 pounds of food scraps has gone into this system.  With ANY other home composting unit, you would be lucky to process 10% -15% of this.

I’m comfortable saying that The Worm Inn processes your scraps 5X-10X FASTER THAN ANY OTHER COMMERCIAL HOME COMPOSTING SYSTEM.

Wholesale pricing is available on bulk orders.  These units are PERFECT for home use, business use, and particuliarly school use, where worms are often killed by overfeeding.

If you have a lot of scraps that you want turned into RICH AND CRUMBLY BLACK GOLD CASTINGS,  THE WORM INN IS WHAT YOU WANT. 

The Worm Inn is available here: http://www.thewormdude.com/shop-categories/  along with an optional  custom no bend, no stoop stand kit.

Also, on an unrelated note- how long does it take for the cocoons to hatch?

Thanks for being such a great help!!

Hi Jamie,

Love your excitement!  So much….I’m going to feature your question on today’s blog.

Who would have thought you could have so much fun for so little.

Cocoons take anywhere from between 1 to 3 months to hatch.  A temperature of around 75 degrees will optimize your hatch rate.

Initially your cocoons are greenish yellow….the yellow…then redish, then dark red when they are ready to hatch.

Worms can handle a lot more than you peeking at them.  Just make sure you don’t get so excited that you go overboard with food or water.

The Worm Inn will soon be sold through distributors around the world.  I’m currently working with a UK Distributor, and have been in negotiations with distributors from other countries.   The Worm Inn sets the standard for Home/School composting.  Most composting systems can handle a pound or two of scraps for a pound or two of worms.  The Worm Inn is different.  Because of it’s unique breathable design, it can do the job of several conventional systems.

Because of  The Worm Inn’s unique breathable design, your food waste is less apt to go anaerobic, so you don’t worry about creating a sewer just because you need the worms to process a little more than normal. 

There is no comparison between a conventional plastic bin and The Worm Inn.  If you are SERIOUS about waste reduction, The Worm Inn is what you want.

Watch these series of YouTube Videos produced by Bentley at http://WWW.RedWormComposting.Com   In typical Bentley style, he’s just having fun filling the bin to the max.  He’s shown feeding a small amount of worms 15 POUNDS OF SCRAPS, with the caveat, DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME.  If you tried this in a plastic bin, you would create a sewer in less than a week…killing all of your worms, and giving your spouse the perfect excuse to grant you a divorce!

It gets better.  The next week, BENTLEY ADDED 10 MORE POUNDS OF SCRAPS TO THE WORM INN.  If this doesnt mean anything to you, you have never raised worms.  I’ve never seen, nor heard of anyone doing anything like Bentley has done.  The AMAZING thing about this is….his Worms are doing GREAT!

POUND FOR POUND, THE WORM INN IS ABSOLUTELY THE MOST EFFICIENT HOME/SCHOOL COMMERCIAL PROCESSING UNIT AVAILABLE.  NO OTHER SYSTEM COMES CLOSE .

Have fun watching these three videos:

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

Plastic composting systems have become popular because they are inexpensive, but since plastic is non porous the body of a plastic system does not breathe.  Plastic systems are known for creating muddy castings, and inefficiencies, resulting in limited processing capabilities.  The deficiencies in plastic systems are commonly known in the world of vermiculture.  If you attempt to put a large amount of food scraps in a plastic system at once, the systems are subject to turning anaerobic, often creating sewer like conditions, and killing worms.

Because plastic systems are by definition oxygen inefficient, it is often difficult for people trying to “Go Green” to process large amounts of food scraps at one time without having massive amounts of worms.  The sad reality is that most plastic systems are cute and easy to produce, but do not perform as well in processing waste as most people would like.

The Worm Inn is DIFFERENT.  The secret to The Worm Inn?  Complete breathability!  Ask any gardener how to get a compost pile going efficiently, and they will tell you to add oxygen.  Cutting off air flow creates stink, encourages anaerobic bacterial growth, and often kills worms.  The Worm Inn has solved this problem by being the MOST BREATHABLE HOME COMPOSTING SYSTEM IN THE WORLD!

Hi Zenon,

Worms are as easy as you are thinking, with a few caveats.

The biggest caveat is that I only have African Nightcrawler Cocoons available at the moment, but I think coming up with a pound of live African Nightcrawlers is the least I can do for someone like yourself.

The risks are minimal:

You did not mention a feed source.  Worms gotta eat! 

Watch out for nails and splinters when working with scrap wood(Gloves and updated tetanus shots would be advisable)

Figure out how to provide some shade for the African Nightcrawlers.  People have some mistaken notions about the tolerance of these worms in general.  Even though African Nightcrawlers are known for being more heat tolerant, they are just worms!  The physics say a 1/10 ounce body  will break down when left in direct sun!  It’s the same with cold…though African Nightcrawlers are more sensitive to low temps than some other types of worms, when tested in bedding,  they easily hold up to ambient temps in the 50’s.

Finally, realize that any worms raised totally on the ground are subject to contamination.  You are likely to  end up with mixed worms (Greatest chance is attracting Red Wigglers).  Not a problem for 99% of the world…but if you are thinking of raising bait, it could be a problem.

Hi Travis,

Your experience is due to classic overfeeding.

Worms live in bedding, and eat food.  You cannot have too much bedding…the
worms love it, and it is your barrier so the flying bugs do not swarm the rotting
vegetation.  If they can smell it, they will swarm it.  Food goes in the corner on the bottom only.

A pound of worms is about the size of my fist.  That is the amount you
should be feeding your pound or worms,  especially if you are using a plastic bin.

Excess vegetation (especially throughout the bedding), turns into vinegar.
Vinegar is an acid.  Give your worms an acid bath…worms disappear (die).  Bury the scraps in a corner and the worms can either come to the scraps, or not.  Either way you don’t lose your worms.  Even if the food turns nasty, the microbes will break it down into water over time.

I use the analogy…I like Ragu, but I don’t want to live in Ragu.  No
different for the worms.

Anyone that has ever raised worms and used gorgeous, rich castings knows that Mother Nature does things best! 

So, now that you’ve started your worm bin….what else can you do  to help out your garden?  How about attracting some FRIENDLY BEES to help pollinate your healthy plants that have been fed your worm castings.

Everyone knows that Bee’s are ESSENTIAL for plant pollination.

Most people have no idea that there are MANY different types of Bees.

Let me introduce you to a Bee that you will be EXCITED to have around!

Non Swarming: The Mason Bee, Osmia Lignaria, also known as the Blue Orchard Bee is a soitary bee. This non swarming, efficient pollinating bee will work magic on your plants. The Mason Bee is nicknamed “The Friendly Bee”, and is known for it’s gentle nature. Research says Mason Bees will not sting unless completely provoked (Squeeze one in your hand and you may get stung), but even when provoked, their sting feels more like a mosquito bite, then what one normally associates with a honeybee sting.

Efficiency: You will not get honey from these bees, instead, 500 Mason Bees can pollinate an acre of fruit trees! It would take up to 120,000 honey bees to pollinate this same acre!

How to attract: Mason Bees look for a certain sized hole to inhabit in order to lay cocoons (More Bees year after year)! They will not damage your house as they DO NOT drill holes themselves. After laying their cocoons in these holes, they pack the outside with mud, making it easy for you to tell that you have a large amount of cocoons (Which sell for over $1 each).

My 32 hole Mason Bee Condos can house over 150 Cocoons in each Condo!!!

This one time investment is on SALE NOW, just in time for Mason Bee Season: ONLY $24.95

http://www.thewormdude.com/products-page/whats-the-buzz/

I use only coconut coir for my worm bedding.  I have had my worms for 9 months and harvested only once.  I started out with 2 pound of Red Wigglers.  Do I have to separate the castings from the coir to use for flowers and vegs.? 

Hi Terri,

You can put coir directly on your flowers and vegetables.  In fact, coir is sold as hydroponic soiless grow medium.

So, the short answer is no…you do not need to separate the castings from the coir.  What you have is Vermicompost (Worm Castings plus material that has not yet been processed by the worms).   The reality is, there is no stndard for what constitutes “Pure Worm Castings”, so as long as the end product looks nice, black, and fluffy, and you can tell that the majority of the product has been processed by the worms,  the industry considers them castings….or vermicompost…or vermicast…;)

No wonder what you call it,  The beneficial bacteria in the mix will do amazing things to your soil, allowing you to grow the healthiest plants ever.

Tired of the rains and looking forward to some nice weather?  I can’t do anything about the weather, but I CAN give you something to look forward to! 

WWW.THEWORMDUDE.COM IS OFFERING A “CAN’T WAIT FOR SPRING SPECIAL.  For the entire month of February, Alabama Jumpers are being reduced to just $59 per 1,000 plus shipping.  This is a $20 discount off of the normal price, and the best deal ever.

For those of you that have been drooling to get your hands on these guys (C’mon admit it) and were just waiting till a little closer to spring…..here is the opportunityl you’ve been waiting for.

Gather those leaves to layer on your garden beds  and you will have a great bedding and food source for your jumpers.

Go to my Worm Stuff page and scroll down till you see the picture of the HUGE worm. 

Or go direct:  http://www.thewormdude.com/products-page/introducing-alabama-jumpers-nightcrawlers-for-your-clay-soil/

This is a limited time offer and one that you do not want to miss.

Thank you gary

Hi Gary,

Without a doubt, Alabama Jumpers.

But, worms need a food source.  If I put you on an island without food, you
would perish quickly.  Same with the worms.  Jumpers food of choice is broken down leaf litter, so what I always recommend to people is that they get all the leaves in the  neighborhood, and just throw them on top of your garden bed.  As they break down, they will help amend your soil, plus they will provide a food source so your worms have a reason to stick  around.

If the leaves have all fallen in your neighborhood, just layer on a thick
layer of compost or mulch.  As it breaks down, it will provide food for the worms.

Avoid using something really strong smelling (You would not want a 2′ thick
layer  of Eucalyptus leaves to encourage worms).

That’s it….pretty simple.